One cannot say enough about the labors of proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who has personally overseen the dramatic increase in quality of the wines at Pontet-Canet which started in a significant manner with 1994. This is a classic Pauillac-styled wine (meaning oodles of cassis flavors), as one might expect from a vineyard on the plateau of Pauillac, across the street from Mouton-Rothschild. One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly one of the most profound Pontet-Canets made over the last decade is the 2003. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory. This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet that should be at its best between 2010 and 2035.

Gorgeous raspberry, licorice and currant with hints of toasted oak. Full-bodied, with silky tannins and lots of currant and berry character. Refined. Long, long finish. Best after 2010.

A closed, austere wine; more solid than fruity, showing very firm tannins. There is a pronounced smoky character as well, with cigar box aromas and toasty flavors. What is certain is that this wineâ€"racy and not too heavyâ€"will develop slowly.