(full malo; 9 g/l dosage; LAH9T): Light yellow-gold. Smoky citrus and orchard fruits on the deeply perfumed, mineral-tinged nose. Offers broad, toasty orange and pear skin flavors with an undercurrent of dusty minerals. Picks up floral and ginger nuances with air, along with hints of iodine and tarragon. Rich yet lively blanc de blancs with powerful back-end lift and finishing grip.

With its 100% Chardonnay, this Champagne is finely textured, elegant with minerality and the freshest crispest apple flavors. It does have some weight and certainly has intensity-a satisfying, textured wine that is ready to drink.

Based on the 2019 vintage and disgorged in 2022, Ruinart's newly released NV Blanc de Blancs bursts with characteristically reductive aromas of yellow orchard fruit, citrus oil, iodine and toasted bread. Medium-bodied, pillowy and fleshy, with lively acids and a saline finish, it is an attractive Champagne that incorporates 20% reserve wines.

Classic and springy, with a pastoral, fresh feel and a bright pale straw hue, the NV Champagne Blanc De Blancs Brut is the calling card for the house. This release is based on the 2020 vintage, with some reserves from 2019 and 2018, all raised in stainless steel tank and lifted with 7 grams per liter dosage. Opening to floral aromas as well as a note of salted white grapefruit and a hint of soft, chalky earth, it offers a fluffy mousse and a juicy palate, with notes of candied apple in a medium-bodied frame. A sleek and refreshing Champagne with an approachable kiss of sweet, ripe fruit, it's going to hold up over the coming years, but I would prefer to enjoy it young to preserve its freshness.

A refreshing, mineral-driven Champagne, with a lacy mousse. Offers flavors of crunchy pear, peach skin and acacia blossoms, plus a fragrant skein of graphite, anise and ginger that lingers on the smoke-tinged finish. Drink now.