The 2019 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Fonteny 1er Cru, a monopole of 0.67 hectares, has a tightly wound bouquet that opens with aeration: brambly red fruit mixed with light loamy and woodland scents. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, very mineral-driven with an almost flinty, stern and strict just like a Ruchottes on the finish. Excellent, but one for serious Burgophiles.