One of the finest wines of the vintage is the 2004 Chateauneuf du Pape, a true star and certainly one of the finest wines Philippe Ferrand has yet made. A dense saturated purple color to the rim offers up notes of seaweed wrappers from a sushi bar interwoven with licorice, blackberries, creme de cassis, kirsch liqueur, and Asian spice. Superbly concentrated, with terrific purity and a full-bodied, layered palate with good freshness and definition, this is a stunner and can be drunk early or cellared for up to 15 more years.

Very pure, with a big beam of raspberry and boysenberry confiture running through the middle, along with notes of licorice, violet and graphite. Long finish has deceptive grip. A producer steadily on the rise. Drink now through 2026.