After a period of mediocrity, this large Pomerol estate has begun to reassert its position as one of the better values in high quality wine from this tiny, bucolic appellation. The finest de Sales produced since the early eighties, the medium ruby/garnet-colored 1998 is forward and soft, revealing notions of white chocolate, mocha, and kirsch liqueur. Made in a seductive, luscious style, it possesses sweet tannin, a supple mid-palate as well as finish, and excellent concentration. Purchasers will have no need to defer their gratification. Anticipated maturity: now-2010.

Delicate and pleasant Pomerol. Grapey, herbal, some grapeseed oil. Medium to light body. Light finish. Best after 2003.